JOURNEY EAST TO KEMER & RETURN TO FETHIYE

We were up early to leave the beautiful Bay of Eçinçik.  It was a six-hour very choppy journey under motor to Fethiye Bay where we were glad to finally secure the boat at ECE Marina.  A late lunch 'beckoned' and we went off in search of a restaurant.  The marina cafe was handy - CAFE MOD -  this became a bit of a 'home from home' for me over the next few weeks and was where most of my blogging was done, it also served excellent food and coffee....

Blue crosses show extra stops of return journey to Fethiye

Fethiye Bay became our main sailing area for the rest of the summer but in this blog I will cover the rest of the journey - east to Kemer to find a winter home for Moody B'Lou.

KALKAN

Our first stop was Kalkan.  It was a long roly-poly motor trip of 40 miles which took us the best part of 7 hours, sadly the beautiful pine forests soon disappeared and the mountains became more rugged.  We finally motored into the harbour  and were immediately disappointed.  After reading the guide books we had anticipated a quaint old village climbing the hillside –  I think the information needed updating as we saw an urban sprawl spreading up the hills around the harbour.  Restaurants, clubs and spruikers lined the busy port, however in the evening we discovered older, more interesting little streets as we climbed up behind the harbour front.

KAS

It was just a short sail down to Kas the next day.  We had heard great reports of a brand new marina and we were anxious to see it for ourselves.  We entered a long narrow bay behind a large headland and found the marina tucked in at the bottom.  

Kas Marina - huge, perfect and almost empty

On the otherside of the headland, and just a short walk across a narrow neck of land, we found Kas town.  

Sarcophagus in Kas street

We enjoyed shopping there the next day, browsing through some of the old lanes where we found lots of rug shops, Turkish delight, spices and the odd Sarcophagi or two, also beautiful marble water fonts (for washing before prayers).

Harbour front buildings in Kas with enclosed wooden window / balconies

We much preferred Kas to Kalkan, finding it a lot less brash.    The marina also had a fabulous swimming pool overlooking the sea - a big plus on boiling hot days.

FINIKE

Another early morning followed by another long journey of 40 miles up the coast to the town of Finike.  On the way we passed Kekova Roads, an area we shall investigate on our return.   We finally motored into Finike Marina with clouds covering all the background hills.  The marina looked full but it was very quiet and rather dismal looking, not much activity and an air of neglect.   Although we were tired and extremely hot we made an effort to get off the boat in the  evening, it was rewarded with some very mediocre food.  The next day we departed for Kemer, the most easterly point of our travels this year.

KEMER

Kemer Marina with mountains in distance

Coastline up to Kemer was rugged and quite hauntingly beautiful, but it was a long old hot motor and we were glad to reach the attractive marina.  Kemer, however was another disappointment, a real package holiday resort with blocks of mediocre hotels, blaring pop music and postage stamp size swimming pools.  The narrow strips of beach were crowded with beach beds and parasols and the bay busy with paragliding, water skiing, jet skis and gulets.   This area was inaccessible before a coast road was built in the 1980’s, when funds from the IMF were invested to build  a custom built town for sun hungry tourists.   The town, however, was well laid out with attractive walkways leading up to the town centre which consisted of a very large pedestrian street  (aptly named Shopping Road) lined with shops and restaurants reminding me of the shopping malls in large airports – lots of luxury goods and not a grocer in sight, the two most notable restaurants were named ‘Pirates of the Caribbean’ and ‘The Titanic’.   Needless to say we didn’t hang around here too long but found acceptable restaurants in quieter spots.

RETURN to FETHIYE via 

CINEVIZ LIMANI

Having decided against Kemer as a winter home for Moody B’Lou we returned westwards to Fethiye Bay at a slower pace, determined to find some quiet anchorages away from the crowds.  Our first stop was in the large almost hidden bay of Cineviz Limani.  

We were surrounded by monumental mountains and a small beach at the head of the bay.  The sea was inviting so we enjoyed a couple of cool swims and in the evening lit the barbecue and relished the solitude of such a pristine setting.

Before leaving the next morning I had a last swim and discovered a companion, a turtle who would occasionally lift his head above the water just to remind me he was there.

ANOTHER BEAUTIFUL ANCHORAGE NEAR KEKOVA ROADS

The next morning we set off promptly for Kekova Roads, just 20Ks from Kas.  Kekova Island (Adasi) is a 4-mile long island lying parallel to a much indented piece of coast.  After a magnificent sail with all 3 sails working in 12-15 knots of wind we entered the channel between the island and mainland.   We made for a bay at the SW end of the inlet called Polemos Buku.

  

On the way we passed KaleKoy and it’s magnificent fortress remains and a popular hamlet called Ucagiz Limani catering for boat visitors.

POLEMOS BUKU

We finally arrived at the head of this long inlet to find just one other yacht – it was so beautiful we wondered why?

More huge mountains towered over us.   There were two small jetties with basic looking restaurants, how to choose!  Alan scrutinised both (restaurants is really too sophisticated a word) through the binoculars.   After a swim followed by on-deck shower and change of clothes we revved Scooter up and made for the shore, totally unprepared for the treat in store. 

  

small restaurant shacks at head of bay

Probably the best 'evening experience' of our trip

A young teenage boy and his younger sister secured the boat, their father greeted us and showed us to our table – a very grand affair on it’s own floating platform with furniture, cutlery, napery and glass that would not have disgraced any sophisticated Melbourne restaurant – yet is had all looked so humble from a distance.   We had panoramic views out to the bay with moon rising and behind us a small lake, surrounded by trees and the sun setting  behind the hills (alas no camera!!).  With such a wonderful setting I couldn’t have cared less about the food!   We were the only customers and the whole family attended us.  The children practised their English and the young teenage son made a very professional waiter.  The food was great, Alan had fresh fish which was cooked in their pizza oven.  We watched the whole cooking process, mother prepared the salads, inevitable chips, smashed olives whilst Dad attended to the oven.  It was a family effort with much banter and laughter on their part and made for a ‘memorable’ evening.

View from Polemos Buku

So we travelled west back to Fethiye Bay much more relaxed by our return journey thanks to shorter trips, more peaceful anchorages and much better winds for sailing.