The Haman is a traditional bathhouse which was widely used throughout Turkey before the installation of the domestic bathroom, many survive today and are recognisable by their distinctive domed roofs.
We tried the ‘Haman experience’ in a 16th century bathhouse in Fethiye. Part of me wondered if I was ‘out of my mind’ seeking more heat on what was already a very hot summer’s day, however curiosity overcame any doubts.
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We were presented with clogs nalin and linen cloths pestimal, once stripped and wrapped we were led into the bathhouse -
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| Gobek Tasi in foreground |
The HARERET – a domed central space surrounded by smaller areas equipped with marble sinks and small basins – kurna - for sluicing.
We soon felt the heat, modesty was thrown to the wind as we stripped down to underpants and started sluicing madly. After 20 minutes or so of ‘sweating it out’ (perspiration is too moderate a word! ) I was summoned to spread myself face down on the huge marble octagonal slab - GOBEK TASI - in the centre of the chamber – this is the heart of the Haman and it is placed directly over the furnace so it’s very hot.
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A female masseuse rubbed and scrubbed me all over with a coarse cloth mitten kese. After a cold rinse down it was time for the head to toe massage - wonderful.
Finally I was shampooed with suds, an extraordinary sensation as I was lying face down and couldn’t see what was happening, I just felt totally enveloped in a gentle warmth - in reality a large cotton bag was filled with suds and air and wafted over my body.
An extremely cold rinse down brought me out of my reverie...
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| Lou and Fran recovering...... |
We were given fresh PESTIMAL to leave the bathhouse and greeted by the manager in the reception area who wrapped us up in warm towels, he also wrapped a head towel around our dripping locks and there we sat, looking like something out of a nativity play, but oh so nicely relaxed.....
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