JOURNEY EAST TO KEMER & RETURN TO FETHIYE

We were up early to leave the beautiful Bay of Eçinçik.  It was a six-hour very choppy journey under motor to Fethiye Bay where we were glad to finally secure the boat at ECE Marina.  A late lunch 'beckoned' and we went off in search of a restaurant.  The marina cafe was handy - CAFE MOD -  this became a bit of a 'home from home' for me over the next few weeks and was where most of my blogging was done, it also served excellent food and coffee....

Blue crosses show extra stops of return journey to Fethiye

Fethiye Bay became our main sailing area for the rest of the summer but in this blog I will cover the rest of the journey - east to Kemer to find a winter home for Moody B'Lou.

KALKAN

Our first stop was Kalkan.  It was a long roly-poly motor trip of 40 miles which took us the best part of 7 hours, sadly the beautiful pine forests soon disappeared and the mountains became more rugged.  We finally motored into the harbour  and were immediately disappointed.  After reading the guide books we had anticipated a quaint old village climbing the hillside –  I think the information needed updating as we saw an urban sprawl spreading up the hills around the harbour.  Restaurants, clubs and spruikers lined the busy port, however in the evening we discovered older, more interesting little streets as we climbed up behind the harbour front.

KAS

It was just a short sail down to Kas the next day.  We had heard great reports of a brand new marina and we were anxious to see it for ourselves.  We entered a long narrow bay behind a large headland and found the marina tucked in at the bottom.  

Kas Marina - huge, perfect and almost empty

On the otherside of the headland, and just a short walk across a narrow neck of land, we found Kas town.  

Sarcophagus in Kas street

We enjoyed shopping there the next day, browsing through some of the old lanes where we found lots of rug shops, Turkish delight, spices and the odd Sarcophagi or two, also beautiful marble water fonts (for washing before prayers).

Harbour front buildings in Kas with enclosed wooden window / balconies

We much preferred Kas to Kalkan, finding it a lot less brash.    The marina also had a fabulous swimming pool overlooking the sea - a big plus on boiling hot days.

FINIKE

Another early morning followed by another long journey of 40 miles up the coast to the town of Finike.  On the way we passed Kekova Roads, an area we shall investigate on our return.   We finally motored into Finike Marina with clouds covering all the background hills.  The marina looked full but it was very quiet and rather dismal looking, not much activity and an air of neglect.   Although we were tired and extremely hot we made an effort to get off the boat in the  evening, it was rewarded with some very mediocre food.  The next day we departed for Kemer, the most easterly point of our travels this year.

KEMER

Kemer Marina with mountains in distance

Coastline up to Kemer was rugged and quite hauntingly beautiful, but it was a long old hot motor and we were glad to reach the attractive marina.  Kemer, however was another disappointment, a real package holiday resort with blocks of mediocre hotels, blaring pop music and postage stamp size swimming pools.  The narrow strips of beach were crowded with beach beds and parasols and the bay busy with paragliding, water skiing, jet skis and gulets.   This area was inaccessible before a coast road was built in the 1980’s, when funds from the IMF were invested to build  a custom built town for sun hungry tourists.   The town, however, was well laid out with attractive walkways leading up to the town centre which consisted of a very large pedestrian street  (aptly named Shopping Road) lined with shops and restaurants reminding me of the shopping malls in large airports – lots of luxury goods and not a grocer in sight, the two most notable restaurants were named ‘Pirates of the Caribbean’ and ‘The Titanic’.   Needless to say we didn’t hang around here too long but found acceptable restaurants in quieter spots.

RETURN to FETHIYE via 

CINEVIZ LIMANI

Having decided against Kemer as a winter home for Moody B’Lou we returned westwards to Fethiye Bay at a slower pace, determined to find some quiet anchorages away from the crowds.  Our first stop was in the large almost hidden bay of Cineviz Limani.  

We were surrounded by monumental mountains and a small beach at the head of the bay.  The sea was inviting so we enjoyed a couple of cool swims and in the evening lit the barbecue and relished the solitude of such a pristine setting.

Before leaving the next morning I had a last swim and discovered a companion, a turtle who would occasionally lift his head above the water just to remind me he was there.

ANOTHER BEAUTIFUL ANCHORAGE NEAR KEKOVA ROADS

The next morning we set off promptly for Kekova Roads, just 20Ks from Kas.  Kekova Island (Adasi) is a 4-mile long island lying parallel to a much indented piece of coast.  After a magnificent sail with all 3 sails working in 12-15 knots of wind we entered the channel between the island and mainland.   We made for a bay at the SW end of the inlet called Polemos Buku.

  

On the way we passed KaleKoy and it’s magnificent fortress remains and a popular hamlet called Ucagiz Limani catering for boat visitors.

POLEMOS BUKU

We finally arrived at the head of this long inlet to find just one other yacht – it was so beautiful we wondered why?

More huge mountains towered over us.   There were two small jetties with basic looking restaurants, how to choose!  Alan scrutinised both (restaurants is really too sophisticated a word) through the binoculars.   After a swim followed by on-deck shower and change of clothes we revved Scooter up and made for the shore, totally unprepared for the treat in store. 

  

small restaurant shacks at head of bay

Probably the best 'evening experience' of our trip

A young teenage boy and his younger sister secured the boat, their father greeted us and showed us to our table – a very grand affair on it’s own floating platform with furniture, cutlery, napery and glass that would not have disgraced any sophisticated Melbourne restaurant – yet is had all looked so humble from a distance.   We had panoramic views out to the bay with moon rising and behind us a small lake, surrounded by trees and the sun setting  behind the hills (alas no camera!!).  With such a wonderful setting I couldn’t have cared less about the food!   We were the only customers and the whole family attended us.  The children practised their English and the young teenage son made a very professional waiter.  The food was great, Alan had fresh fish which was cooked in their pizza oven.  We watched the whole cooking process, mother prepared the salads, inevitable chips, smashed olives whilst Dad attended to the oven.  It was a family effort with much banter and laughter on their part and made for a ‘memorable’ evening.

View from Polemos Buku

So we travelled west back to Fethiye Bay much more relaxed by our return journey thanks to shorter trips, more peaceful anchorages and much better winds for sailing.  

  

THE HAMAN

The Haman is a traditional bathhouse which was widely used throughout Turkey before the installation of the domestic bathroom, many survive today and are recognisable by their distinctive domed roofs.

 

We tried the ‘Haman experience’ in a 16^th century bathhouse in Fethiye.  Part of me wondered if I was ‘out of my mind’ seeking more heat on what was already a very hot summer’s day, however curiosity overcame any doubts.

We were presented with clogs nalin and linen cloths pestimal, once stripped and wrapped we were led into the bathhouse -    

Gobek Tasi in foreground

The HARERET – a domed central space surrounded by smaller areas equipped with marble sinks and small basins – kurna - for sluicing.

We soon felt the heat, modesty was thrown to the wind as we stripped down to underpants and started sluicing madly.    After  20 minutes or so of ‘sweating it out’ (perspiration is too moderate a word! ) I was summoned to spread myself face down on the huge marble octagonal slab - GOBEK TASI  - in the centre of the chamber – this is the heart of the Haman and it is placed directly over the furnace so it’s very hot. 

A female masseuse rubbed and scrubbed me all over with a coarse cloth mitten kese.  After a cold rinse down it was time for the head to toe massage - wonderful.  

Finally I was shampooed with suds, an extraordinary sensation as I was lying face down and couldn’t see what was happening, I just felt totally enveloped in a gentle warmth - in reality a large cotton bag was filled with suds and air and wafted over my body.  

An extremely cold rinse down brought me out of my reverie...

Lou and Fran recovering......

We were given fresh PESTIMAL to leave the bathhouse and greeted by the manager in the reception area who wrapped us up in warm towels, he also wrapped a head towel around our dripping locks and there we sat, looking like something out of a nativity play, but oh so nicely relaxed.....

ROCK TOMBS ON THE DALYAN RIVER

DALYAN RIVER

At Ecincik we booked an early morning tour up the River Dalyan to visit the ancient settlement of Kaunos and the Kings Tombs.   

The launch left early and we were soon motoring around the coast to the river mouth. 

The rock face looked wonderful in early morning light  

we stopped to investigate a couple of caves – the literature said  ‘It’s very easy to get married with in one year for people who swim in the cave’ – none of us were game for this.

We passed deserted beaches to finally reach the Dalyan delta ..........

passing through waterways lined by bullrushes which were alive with birds, including kingfishers, egrets and herons.

KAUNOS, ANCIENT CITY

Alan takes the lead up to Kaunos

We left the launch to climb up to the ancient ruins of Kaunos, first settled by Anatolians in 9 century BC.  The whole place was thriving by 400 BC.   

Cathy and David in the amphitheatre

The theatre was in pretty good shape, despite some olive trees growing in the stalls………  

A row of spare stalls.........

There were also remains of the Agora (market place), stoa (covered walkways) a temple and Acropolis.  It was later taken over by Romans who added Roman Baths………..  However, yet again it was the location that was breathtaking – these ancients knew how to choose their sites.

THE TOMBS

After reclaiming our boat we travelled further upstream to view the famous Kings Tombs – tombs cut into the rock face with temple like facades built by the Carian people in 4^th Century BC for the Lycian King and his family.

Iztuzu Beach is a specially protected area for the Logger Head Turtle, it's a day resort with no one allowed in the area at night.  Boat skippers were trying to entice turtles with barbecued crabs – sadly the wise turtles stayed away from the hustle of the boats, but we enjoyed the crabs instead.  However I did see something rather special........

On the beach a goat had climbed into a tree.  

We left the Delta and headed back to Ecincik Bay, we were all looking forward to collapsing into the sea.........

ENTERING TURKISH WATERS

Flags flying on Moody B'Lou

As we left the Greek Island of Kos we began to follow Turkish coastline eastwards, never quite sure whether we were in Greek or Turkish waters.  The Greek flag was replaced with the Turkish Crescent and Star, we also flew a yellow pennant which demonstrated that we were in transit and yet to clear with Turkish Customs and Authorities.

DATCA

Forty nautical miles later we entered the port of Datca – a small harbour town on the Resadiye Peninsula, where the Mediterranean meets the Aegean Sea.  Datca proved to be a great entry point, a thriving small Turkish town, all formalities were sorted out promptly and we were set with our visas for a 90-day stay.

Here was our first encounter with the infamous GULETS, large wide wooden yachts built in Turkey and because of their generous deck space, they are widely in demand for short-term charter work.  The Turkish crews can be quite cavalier in their boat handling skills so we gave them a wide berth, much better viewed from a distance but they are worth viewing……..  

One final note on Datcha from the Information Centre – 'Datcha has 300 sunny days moreover plenty oxygen and sweat-free holiday are available…………. '

My rough map, red line showing our travels

We sailed eastwards from Datcha visiting towns, villages and many overnight anchorages, our final destination being Kemer which we wanted to inspect with a view to 'winterising' Moody B'Lou.

Our next stop was at Bozuk Buku.  This was a remote protected bay on a very bleak headland dotted with a few goats and scrub like trees.   We anchored in a quiet spot in company of a few gulets and other yachts, however the bay was large with plenty of space.  A small shack beckoned from the beach for a lunchtime break – 'said shack' was adorned with rugs, klims and cushions and we nestled down to a relaxed mezze with beautiful views. 

MARMARIS

The next day we headed 30 miles, NE up along the headland toward Marmaris, the barren rugged peaks became greener as pine forests covered the hillsides.  Our chosen marina was way outside Marmaris which was a good decision since Marmaris itself looked large and busy with modern concrete buildings.  

ECINCIK

The next stop of Ecincik, some 20 miles away, was quite stunning and a real delight to us all.  We opted to stay at My Marina, which consisted of a couple of pontoons in a very discrete setting, again pine covered hills and pristine waters.  

Sophisticated facilities such as showers and a restaurant were hidden away in the pines and the few buildings surrounding the marina were built of old stone or wood.  

It was all so tasteful with minimal intrusion on this magical location.   Just meters from the boat was a cordoned off area for swimming which we promptly made use of.   There are very strict rules about boat waste in Turkey, boats must use holding tanks for all sewage - so swimming areas around the boats remain clean, clear and inviting.......   


From Ecinca  we took a trip up the Dalyan River - next BLOG

TURKEY

This is my first Blog entry since we entered Turkish waters six weeks ago.  I have found it hard to formulate my impressions of this vast country bearing in mind that we have only seen such a small part of the coastline.

The ubiquitous and wonderfully vibrant Turkish flag

We arrived in mid-July to intense heat that inhibited much exploration off the boat., our most pressing need was to stay cool, which we did by frequent dips in the water or by catching sea breezes as we sailed.   Our arrival also coincided with European school holidays as coastal towns bulged with sun-hungry tourists and yacht charters.  August also brought the month of Ramadan where devout muslims fast from dawn until dark, the fast being broken by ITFAR the evening meal.

Having said all of the above, the Mediterranean coastline is majestic and hauntingly beautiful.  

The Tarsus Mountains form a backdrop with multiple layers of blue undulations which abut an ancient looking coastline; the cliff formations and abundant ancient ruins both combine to convey this impression.  I have failed dismally to get this on camera – the distant blues just fade into the sky……….

At times the coast looks soft and green with pine forests descending to the shore but a few miles further it becomes a huge rocky mass  growing out of the turquoise seas. 

Although there are lots of tourists, most tend to stay in towns that have been purpose built as holiday resorts. Fortunately we were able to find quiet spots to hide away.

Of course, we are not tourists, just two spoilt individuals wanting this beauty all to ourselves.  In the next blogs I describe some of our journey………