Last Stages of Greek Travels & Arrival of Garcias

Tinos / Ikaria / Patmos / Leros 

The last stage of our travels in Greece took us south from Andros to Tinos and then eastwards to Ikaria in The Eastern Sporades, from there southwards through the Dodecanese Islands (which run roughly parallel with the Turkish Coastline) stopping at Patmos and Leros, with our final Greek destination being Kos.

Before leaving Andros we picked up our new crew members, Cathy and David Garcia, old neighbours from Richmond UK and also experienced fellow sailors.  Another beautiful day dawned for our sail down to Tinos, by midday we had good winds and were able to skirt the W. Coast of Tinos with 8.7 knots of speed and one reef in the foresail.


TINOS  

On our arrival at Tinos town I was a little dismayed to find we were moored up on a quay in the centre of  town – as we lowered the passerelle (our drawbridge to the outer world) cars were noisily wizzing by, however by 5.00pm all traffic magically stopped and the wide stretch of road became the area of focus for the locals’ evening walk. 

Tinos town - church centre right with main st leading up from harbour

Tinos is famous for being home to a 190 yr old Icon of The Virgin Mary which many believe has miraculous powers for curing the sick.   A wide road from the harbour front leads up to the modern Orthodox Church of Panagia Evangelistria especially built to accommodate the icon.  Inset into the road is a rubberised strip on which Pilgrims can ascend on their hands and knees!   The Venetian past of Tinos also explains a large RC presence; a strong following of both faiths is evident, judging by the 1,300 Churches with a population of just 8614.

The next day was Cathy’s birthday which we celebrated by having a few hours off the boat and touring the island.   We were soon climbing out of Tinos town and along a high road hugging the coast in our small hire car.  On the way we  saw many of the reputed 60 brilliant white villages dotted on the rugged hillsides or tucked away in small bays.  The countryside looked dry and barren with the ubiquitous stone wall terracing. 

Our lunchtime destination was Panormos Bay on the NW coast.  We descended to a pretty little harbour lined by fishing boats and a few tavernas where we enjoyed a leisurely birthday lunch.

In the afternoon we retraced our steps but stopped at the village of Pyrgos – a centre for marble and a home for many sculptors and artists.  The village was classically Cycladean – stark white houses with blue paintwork lined numerous lanes and alleyways.  

The whole island is  renowned for fan-light carvings above the many doorways.  

A fishing boat ‘motif’ carved into stone was also widely evident – probably reflecting their maritime past.  

Many of the houses had oriental patterns on the stonework.   

The whole village was a delight to wander through, our only problem being the choice of which little lane to meander along.

Ornate Dovecotes are another Venetian legacy found all over the island and we discovered a wonderful concentration of these in a small valley adjoining the village of Kambos, high above Tinos town.

In the evening we toasted Cathy's continuing health with Champagne then dined at an excellent modern Greek restaurant in a vine clad courtyard (not a Greek salad or a kebab in sight).

IKARIA

After acquiring a crusty hot loaf straight  from a baker's oven we cast off from Tinos town quay and were on way south by 7.30 am.  We had a long motor down around the South Coast of Tinos with good views of Myconos as we travelled East towards Ikaria.  Eventually the bleak hills of Ikaria appeared.

We arrived at the port of Ayios Kirikos and found everything very quiet.  Moody B'Lou appeared to be the only cruising yacht in port.  The little town was dominated by a large domed church and the quayside lined with a few sleepy tavernas.  

Later that evening as we drank the local 'red' we pondered on the story that Ikaria is the reputed 'birth place' of wine.  

I had also read that the island is famed for the longevity of it’s  citizens – is this related to the wine??

We upped and left the mooring early next morning and headed for an anchorage in the Fournoi islands where we planned a lunchtime stop for lunch.  We had a good sail south with 20 knots of wind and anchored in a quiet narrow bay at South Fournoi for a swim and picnic lunch. 

Monastery on hill in distance

PATMOS

Then we journeyed on south to Patmos and finally entered a large bay where we found a ‘stern to’ mooring, a suitable distance away from the busy ferry area.   The harbour was dominated by a huge grey fortified monastery of St John the Divine, it stood high on a hill surrounded by the typical white chora (village).  

Oriental tower in Patras town

Later in the evening we strolled along the quayside towards the busy centre.   Patmos is a spiritual centre for the Greek Orthodox faith with a large theological college, like Tinos it attracts many pilgrims who no doubt patronise the many souvenir shops in the pretty lanes. 

LEROS

A leisurely sail south with 21 knots of wind took us to Leros.  It was another brilliant day of dark blue seas and dramatic coastlines.  

Empty Italian Navy Base in Lakki Bay

Leros was occupied by Italians during WW2 and they left their imprint with large art deco buildings surrounding Lakki Bay (a former Italian navy base).  Here we moored 'stern to' at a small marina which has all the luxuries we needed – water, electricity, a shower block and laundry.....

That evening we caught a taxi up over the narrow neck of the island to visit the small capital town of Platanos from there we were able to walk down to Ayia Marina, a village with a small fishing harbour.  Again the Italian influence prevailed with many houses painted in deeper colours of Ochre and Terracotta.  We watched the setting sun over an aperitif and dined at a fish restaurant recommended by some middle aged Greek Aussies from Melbourne…….

Leros appeared softer than previous Aegean islands with lower rounded wooded hills.  Cathy, David and I enjoyed an early morning walk up into the hills passing a couple of farms and an old military museum.   

On the way we found 3 tiny kittens on the roadside – someone had left dried catfood, but they really didn’t know what to do with it.  There was consolation in that they looked well nourished and cared for, which is not the lot of most Greek cats.........  

Then onto KOS our final Greek destination.............