Strong MELTEMI winds were forecast for the next week so Alan took the opportunity of getting an alongside berth in the harbour in order to tie up the boat as securely as possible. We decided to hire a car and get away whilst the MELTEMI blew.
We followed the dramatic coastal road looking at the raging sea – I stopped to take photos of the patterns of sea spray and felt terrified as the winds almost swept me away.
Eventually the road turned inland passing through a large fertile valley of cypress and olive groves punctuated by a few small villages; large homes standing in their own spacious grounds had commanding views on the hillsides. Our destination was Andros, the small delightful capital of Andros island.
Andros - a stunning little town
We booked into a hotel and prepared to enjoy a few treats, such as unlimited supplies of hot water and electricity. In fact we were the only guests – so we luxuriated in the space and the beautiful swimming pool.
Old Town house in Andros |
The small town was set on a narrow steep headland swooping down to beaches and sea on either side. The main pedestrian thoroughfare stretched along the ridge with steps and alleyways descending on either side. We sat in one of the squares and had a coffee surveying the hubbub of everyday Greek life.
Greek society, as we have seen it, appears to be so inclusive – all are on the street meeting and greeting in their loud expressive voices. Elderly Greek men, with character etched in every wrinkle, sip their coffee and pass the day away surveying the scene – children playing, women of all ages shopping and chatting, younger men ‘doing business’, Orthodox Priests strolling and talking with everyone………
The next day we travelled south along more dramatic coastline to Korthio, again we saw lots of beautiful homes, many descending to small secluded beaches. We also passed a Heliport which gives some indication as to the level of wealth in this area.
On the final evening of our visit we wandered up to the town centre and had a drink in the tree covered ‘Plateia’ or square. It was unusually busy for 7.30 with lots of excited locals and their children. As we sat down to supper a trio of musicians started to play traditional Greek music whilst the square filled with capacity crowds.
It was the Feast of St John
The local children had made garlands of fresh wild flowers on May 1st and now those dried garlands were being judged and prizes awarded. Luckily they all appeared to win prizes and much applause – later the garlands were gathered together in a large pile that was lit and excited children jumped over the flames (sounds dangerous but it was well supervised).
Wonderful character playing the violin which was amplified and just sounded Greek.......
Meanwhile the trio struck up another tune and the party continued…….. tables of old ladies tapped their feet and young girls danced whilst shy boys stood on the sidelines and proud parents looked on. We too looked on and felt privileged to be there ……
We left Andros the following morning taking a northerly route into the mountains hugging the coast. As we left the sea, the road climbed up though high bleak moor-like areas, much of which was covered in gorse and the remains of sophisticated walled terracing, and although we didn’t see many houses we did see quite a few chapels, shrines and a monastery.
On our return to Batsi we found Moody B’Lou 'safe and sound', she had survived the MELTEMI.
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