KOS our final Greek Destination

KOS

The following day we sailed off to Kos, our final Greek stop.  Kos is a very popular holiday destination, demonstrated by umpteen modern hotels along the town coastline.  Strips of beach were filled with sunbeds, parasols and 'pink' bodies.  The marina was on the edge of town, so thankfully it was relatively quiet.  


There were certain requirements to be met before taking the boat and ourselves out of Greek Waters.  So Alan spent the day busy with paperwork which entailed visits to Customs and Immigrations who stamped the papers so that the Port Police could give us an Exit Stamp.   We left him to it as processing paperwork can takes hours.  Kos town was a real mix of modern ‘tourist driven’ buildings and ancient Roman ruins interspersed with colourful blossoms and trees.   

mosaic in ancient Kos Agora

The ancient Agora (old market place) with its central position was fenced off – but not very well because we slipped through and inspected the large site.

Hippocrates' Plane tree with a few Roman Ruins

Nearby we found ‘Hippocrates Tree’.   Apparently ‘the father of modern medicine’ taught his students here.   Well - however old the plane tree was - I’m sure it wasn’t 2,500 years old, but I would like to think this was the spot and maybe the Plane tree a descendant of the original.  

We also spotted Minarets and a Turkish Bath house – a reminder of the proximity of Turkey and the historical fact that this island was in Ottoman hands until 1914 when the Italians took charge.  It only became part of Greece in 1948.

Later we caught a small train that climbed into the hills to reach the Kos Asklepieion – one of the three most important healing centres of Ancient Greece.  It was built after Hippocrates’ death (460-377 BC) to perpetuate his teachings.  

The placement of the sanatorium was thought to be as important as the healing methods and so we found the Asklepieion amidst cypress and olive trees on a peaceful hill with magnificent views over the Gulf of Kos.   Cleansing winds, medicinal springs and ample herbs would have been close to hand; the entire site had a calmness and serenity no doubt due in part to the beautiful situation.

After a quick lunch we resumed our exploration of Kos town and walked around the walls of the medieval Castle of the Knights that dominates the town harbour.  Entering the old town we passed through streets lined with oleander, hibiscus and bougainvillea......

Old remains were everywhere.....

We  stumbled upon Roman villas with intact mosaic floors and interior wall paintings.

Finally we returned via old Kos with its narrow streets and many squares and collapsed for refreshment before our walk back to Moody B'Lou.

We enjoyed our final Greek supper at a local restaurant on the Promenade and returned for an early morning departure to TURKEY.

Last Stages of Greek Travels & Arrival of Garcias

Tinos / Ikaria / Patmos / Leros 

The last stage of our travels in Greece took us south from Andros to Tinos and then eastwards to Ikaria in The Eastern Sporades, from there southwards through the Dodecanese Islands (which run roughly parallel with the Turkish Coastline) stopping at Patmos and Leros, with our final Greek destination being Kos.

Before leaving Andros we picked up our new crew members, Cathy and David Garcia, old neighbours from Richmond UK and also experienced fellow sailors.  Another beautiful day dawned for our sail down to Tinos, by midday we had good winds and were able to skirt the W. Coast of Tinos with 8.7 knots of speed and one reef in the foresail.


TINOS  

On our arrival at Tinos town I was a little dismayed to find we were moored up on a quay in the centre of  town – as we lowered the passerelle (our drawbridge to the outer world) cars were noisily wizzing by, however by 5.00pm all traffic magically stopped and the wide stretch of road became the area of focus for the locals’ evening walk. 

Tinos town - church centre right with main st leading up from harbour

Tinos is famous for being home to a 190 yr old Icon of The Virgin Mary which many believe has miraculous powers for curing the sick.   A wide road from the harbour front leads up to the modern Orthodox Church of Panagia Evangelistria especially built to accommodate the icon.  Inset into the road is a rubberised strip on which Pilgrims can ascend on their hands and knees!   The Venetian past of Tinos also explains a large RC presence; a strong following of both faiths is evident, judging by the 1,300 Churches with a population of just 8614.

The next day was Cathy’s birthday which we celebrated by having a few hours off the boat and touring the island.   We were soon climbing out of Tinos town and along a high road hugging the coast in our small hire car.  On the way we  saw many of the reputed 60 brilliant white villages dotted on the rugged hillsides or tucked away in small bays.  The countryside looked dry and barren with the ubiquitous stone wall terracing. 

Our lunchtime destination was Panormos Bay on the NW coast.  We descended to a pretty little harbour lined by fishing boats and a few tavernas where we enjoyed a leisurely birthday lunch.

In the afternoon we retraced our steps but stopped at the village of Pyrgos – a centre for marble and a home for many sculptors and artists.  The village was classically Cycladean – stark white houses with blue paintwork lined numerous lanes and alleyways.  

The whole island is  renowned for fan-light carvings above the many doorways.  

A fishing boat ‘motif’ carved into stone was also widely evident – probably reflecting their maritime past.  

Many of the houses had oriental patterns on the stonework.   

The whole village was a delight to wander through, our only problem being the choice of which little lane to meander along.

Ornate Dovecotes are another Venetian legacy found all over the island and we discovered a wonderful concentration of these in a small valley adjoining the village of Kambos, high above Tinos town.

In the evening we toasted Cathy's continuing health with Champagne then dined at an excellent modern Greek restaurant in a vine clad courtyard (not a Greek salad or a kebab in sight).

IKARIA

After acquiring a crusty hot loaf straight  from a baker's oven we cast off from Tinos town quay and were on way south by 7.30 am.  We had a long motor down around the South Coast of Tinos with good views of Myconos as we travelled East towards Ikaria.  Eventually the bleak hills of Ikaria appeared.

We arrived at the port of Ayios Kirikos and found everything very quiet.  Moody B'Lou appeared to be the only cruising yacht in port.  The little town was dominated by a large domed church and the quayside lined with a few sleepy tavernas.  

Later that evening as we drank the local 'red' we pondered on the story that Ikaria is the reputed 'birth place' of wine.  

I had also read that the island is famed for the longevity of it’s  citizens – is this related to the wine??

We upped and left the mooring early next morning and headed for an anchorage in the Fournoi islands where we planned a lunchtime stop for lunch.  We had a good sail south with 20 knots of wind and anchored in a quiet narrow bay at South Fournoi for a swim and picnic lunch. 

Monastery on hill in distance

PATMOS

Then we journeyed on south to Patmos and finally entered a large bay where we found a ‘stern to’ mooring, a suitable distance away from the busy ferry area.   The harbour was dominated by a huge grey fortified monastery of St John the Divine, it stood high on a hill surrounded by the typical white chora (village).  

Oriental tower in Patras town

Later in the evening we strolled along the quayside towards the busy centre.   Patmos is a spiritual centre for the Greek Orthodox faith with a large theological college, like Tinos it attracts many pilgrims who no doubt patronise the many souvenir shops in the pretty lanes. 

LEROS

A leisurely sail south with 21 knots of wind took us to Leros.  It was another brilliant day of dark blue seas and dramatic coastlines.  

Empty Italian Navy Base in Lakki Bay

Leros was occupied by Italians during WW2 and they left their imprint with large art deco buildings surrounding Lakki Bay (a former Italian navy base).  Here we moored 'stern to' at a small marina which has all the luxuries we needed – water, electricity, a shower block and laundry.....

That evening we caught a taxi up over the narrow neck of the island to visit the small capital town of Platanos from there we were able to walk down to Ayia Marina, a village with a small fishing harbour.  Again the Italian influence prevailed with many houses painted in deeper colours of Ochre and Terracotta.  We watched the setting sun over an aperitif and dined at a fish restaurant recommended by some middle aged Greek Aussies from Melbourne…….

Leros appeared softer than previous Aegean islands with lower rounded wooded hills.  Cathy, David and I enjoyed an early morning walk up into the hills passing a couple of farms and an old military museum.   

On the way we found 3 tiny kittens on the roadside – someone had left dried catfood, but they really didn’t know what to do with it.  There was consolation in that they looked well nourished and cared for, which is not the lot of most Greek cats.........  

Then onto KOS our final Greek destination.............

ANDROS AND TIME OFF THE BOAT

Strong MELTEMI winds were forecast for the next week so Alan took the opportunity of getting an alongside berth in the harbour in order to tie up the boat as  securely as possible.   We decided to hire a car and get away whilst the MELTEMI blew. 

We followed the dramatic coastal road looking at the raging sea – I stopped to take photos of the patterns of sea spray and felt terrified as the winds almost swept me away.  

Eventually the road turned inland passing through a large fertile valley of cypress and olive groves punctuated by a few small villages; large homes standing in their own spacious grounds had commanding views on the hillsides.  Our destination was Andros, the small delightful capital of Andros  island.

Andros - a stunning little town

We booked into a hotel and prepared to enjoy a few treats, such as unlimited supplies of hot water and electricity.  In fact we were the only guests – so we luxuriated in the space and the beautiful swimming pool.

Old Town house in Andros

The small town was set on a narrow steep headland swooping down to beaches and sea on either side.  The main pedestrian thoroughfare stretched along the ridge with steps and alleyways descending on either side.    We sat in one of the squares and had a coffee surveying the hubbub of everyday Greek life.

Greek society, as we have seen it, appears to be so inclusive – all are on the street meeting and greeting in their loud expressive voices.  Elderly Greek men, with character etched in every wrinkle, sip their coffee and pass the day away surveying the scene – children playing, women of all ages shopping and chatting, younger men ‘doing business’, Orthodox Priests strolling and talking with everyone………

The next day we travelled south along more dramatic coastline to Korthio, again we saw lots of beautiful homes, many descending to small secluded beaches.  We also passed a Heliport which gives some indication as to the level of wealth in this area.

On the final evening of our visit we wandered up to the town centre and had a drink in the tree covered ‘Plateia’ or square.    It was unusually busy for 7.30 with lots of excited locals and their children.   As we sat down to supper a trio of musicians started to play traditional Greek music whilst the square filled with capacity crowds.

  

It was the Feast of St John

The local children had made garlands of fresh wild flowers on May 1^st  and now those dried garlands were being judged and prizes awarded.  Luckily they all appeared to win prizes and much applause – later the garlands were gathered together in a large pile that was lit and excited children jumped over the flames (sounds dangerous but it was well supervised).

Wonderful character playing the violin which was amplified and just sounded Greek.......

Meanwhile the trio struck up another tune and the party continued……..  tables of old ladies tapped their feet and young girls danced whilst shy boys stood on the sidelines and proud parents looked on.  We too looked on and felt privileged to be there ……

We left Andros the following morning taking a northerly route into the mountains hugging the coast.   As we left the sea, the road climbed up though high bleak moor-like areas, much of which was covered in gorse and the remains of sophisticated walled terracing, and although we didn’t see many houses we did see quite a few chapels, shrines and a monastery.

On our return to Batsi we found Moody B’Lou 'safe and sound', she had survived the MELTEMI.

LEAVING MAINLAND FOR KEA AND ANDROS IN THE CYCLADES

The sun was rising as we left Epidhavros, which was our last stop on the Peloponnisos.  We were prepared for a long journey over to KEA (part of the Cyclades group of Islands), 55 miles away; most of this was done under motor but we managed a couple of hours of good sailing as we approached the port of Korrista.  There was a forecast of strong winds and rain for the following day so we opted to stay for a couple of nights.

Approaching the Kea from the West Coast it looked very barren, with no trees or shrubs on the bleak looking hills, curiously much of the rock had a green tinge.  

We noticed a cluster of stark white buildings on an inland hill.  This cluster of houses turned out to be the capital Loulis, known as the ‘Chora’ – or village, originally built 6 miles inland for defence purposes. 

This image was captured from opposite valley which was lush and green. 

The following day Bissett Tours decided some exploration was necessary, so a taxi was procured and we made the ascent.   The taxi drive was as usual horrendous, no hands on the wheel (apart from the hairpin bends), a couple of mobiles in constant use and no attention paid to blind spots or what was coming the other way!   We made it!!

The Chora was full of character and very pretty.  Mr Bissett led the way........

a warren of narrow winding lanes, steep steps, innumerable churches and colourful shrubs and blossoms bursting forth from the narrow white houses – we started to explore but it was like being in a maze……..

We eventually found our way through the village and found ‘The Lion of Kea’ – a colossal lion engraved on rock, dated 600BC  - the work of an unknown Ionian sculptor.  Before leaving we had a quick lunch – I mention this because we had the best Greek Salad so far – I am becoming an expert on Greek Salads………

Port at Korrista on Island of Kea

KEA to ANDROS

We left early and admired the hills that looked so much more attractive with the soft morning light.

Unfortunately we were heading right into wind so we were forced to motor most of the way to Gavrion, the main harbour of Andros.   Lynne and Gerry had ferry tickets to sort out as they were leaving us the following day to spend the last part of their holiday in Santorini.

It was sad to say goodbye to our first sailing visitors, Gerry was an enormous help on the boat both sailing and maintenance!

Gerry in the Galley Bilges........

and Lynne (who is not a sailor) valiantly survived the rough seas and managed to chronicle all the adventures.

Goodbye to our first sailing visitors

Alan and I opted to spend another 3 nights at the unassuming small ferry port of Gavrion and in doing so we were able to have a more leisurely look at the town.  Despite being a busy port the pace was very relaxed with cafes and tavernas lining the quay; these were mostly filled by elderly Greek gentlemen passing the time of day or earnestly playing Backgammon.

View from beach looking back to Gavrion...  

BATSI

We had a quiet motor down to Batsi, the main holiday resort of the island.  

Batsi was ‘picture post card’ pretty, clusters of closely packed white buildings descending down to the little harbour with many steep narrow lanes and flights of steps.  

I discovered to my cost just how ‘steep’ when I went off to find the Post Office, which was situated on a main road skirting the village.   The Post Office was also a restaurant and bar (customers would need refreshment for resuscitation purposes!), it also had the most incredible views………..

Moody B'Lou centre left of image.......

Strong Meltemi gale force winds were forecast so it was a case of battening down the hatches.

ITEA TO KORFOS via THE CORINTH CANAL

The voyage from Itea through the Corinth Canal to Korfos was 60 Ks,  so we set off early at 6.45 on another beautiful summer’s morning.   The sailing was good, especially once out in the Gulf of Corinth, however it did become quite choppy.

We made good time arriving at the Canal entrance just after 1.00 pm; we waited behind a breakwater until given permission to make our way Eastwards down the Canal. 


Eventually Moody B'Lou was called on the radio and given the ‘go ahead’.   A Hydraulic bridge (yellow and black diagonal stripes) at the entrance to the Canal was lowered and we travelled through...... 

We led the way with several boats behind us.

The Canal is 3.2 miles long and 25m wide, construction was started by the French, but finished by the Greeks and opened in 1893.  

Before canal completion boats either had to be dragged across the isthmus or make the lengthy journey south around the Peloponnisos.   This strategic situation made the ancient town of Corinth very wealthy – it controlled both North/South trade (Mainland and Peloponnisos) and West/East trade (connecting the Ionian and Aegean Seas).  

Construction necessitated cutting deep into limestone; the canal wall reaches up to 79m at the highest point.

It has three bridges, a rail bridge and two road bridges crossing at the maximum height (people just visible at top of bridge).  We had travelled across the bridge on our travels to and from Lefkas and often looked down in wonder.....

The Canal is closed every Tuesday for repairs to the crumbling walls.  

This much anticipated trip didn't disappoint us.

On to KORFOS

A rather dismal Aegean Sea awaited us at the other end of the Canal.  We were quickly grabbing wet weather gear for the final 3-hour journey east and then south down to Korfos. 

At Korfos we managed to get a ‘stern to’ berth outside one of the tavernas that advertised showers and water.  The showers turned out to be one ropey looking contraption at the front of the taverna in full view of everyone – in fact some Spanish lads moored next to us and put on a ‘floor show’ using aforesaid shower and caused much hilarity.  Water wasn’t much use either as the hosepipe didn’t reach the boat, also the obligatory supper at the Taverna was pretty poor and very expensive – not a good start for the Aegean.

Leaving Korfos - it looked better in the sunshine the next morning.

Korfos to Edpidhavros  

This was just a 10-mile jaunt, a beautiful hazy day and a gentle sail. 

  

This time we chose to put an anchor down just off the beach in front of the little town.   Epidavhros looked far more promising than Korfos, the tavernas were clean and more discreet and there were a fair sprinkling of well stocked food stores. 

We had read about an ancient Amphitheatre nearby so grabbed a taxi to travel the odd 18K to the site.  The Epidhavros Theatre was magnificent and is considered the best preserved of all Greek theatres – it’s mostly original and is still in use today with a capacity of 14,000.   Acoustics are perfect – paper rustled on stage can be heard from the top row of seats.   In ancient times the whole site was better known as a religious centre for curing the sick – and the remains of many old buildings relating to that fact were evident.  Maybe performance in the theatre was thought to be therapeutic?

The next day, a day off from sailing, ‘Bissett Tours’ took a walk along the shore and stumbled on yet another ancient amphitheatre.  This was smaller and not in such good condition, however it did have a lovely situation, facing onto the sea.

We returned to the boat for a refreshing dip in the sea………… and to prepare for the next stage of the trip to the islands of The Aegean.