Leaving The Ionian Islands

On 1 June we finally left Lefkas town, our base since buying Moody B’Lou last year.   It was sad to leave this community, everyone had been so supportive and generous.  Saying farewell to the island too was a wrench, with its sweep of steep green mountains descending to the sea.  

South of the Lefkas Canal we entered the Inland Sea, so called because of the 360 degree view of mainland and islands.   As usual it was panorama of myriad blues and greens, it always takes my breath away…….

We made for One Tree Bay, a quiet inlet on the mainland and a favourite lunch-time anchorage.   Here we all had a swim in pristine waters and a leisurely lunch.

Later we continued our sail down the East Coast of Lefkas passing by the islands of Meganissi and Skopelos.

Our first night was spent in RUEDA BAY on the South Coast of Lefkas.  It’s a large quiet bay with a sprinkling of holiday apartments and tavernas and we were able to find a safe anchorage about a 100 metres from the beach, once more the waters were so clear we could see our anchor on the sandy seabed.  Moody B'Lou is first boat on left.

The cliff face at Rueda Bay

The bay is lined on one side by incredible cliffs which catch the evening light.

We enjoyed the solitude and took advantage of the barmy evening by christening the new barbecue.  The boys, aided by a glass or two of vino, cooked a plump chicken that we all enjoyed and the new barbecue was declared ‘fit for use’.

The following morning Gerry fired up Scooter and we motored off to the dingy dock to enjoy the first morning walk of ‘BISSETT TOURS’  an ideal opportunity to find our ‘land legs’ and also explore.  Everything was very quiet, we felt sorry for the locals, who are so dependent on tourism, however we enjoyed the walk with occasional views of turquoise seas and Moody B’Lou.

Goodbye Rueda Bay

RUEDA BAY TO KIONI (Ithaca) 

Late morning we set off for Kioni, NE of Ithaca.  There was a good NW wind but the main sail stubbornly refused to unfurl from the mast, fortunately we managed to sail  with just the foresail.   Kioni, marked by three old windmills on a headland, eventually appeared and we motored into the small harbour.  Here we had to undergo the manoeuvres of the ‘continental mooring system’ i.e. you drop the anchor fifty yards or so out from the quay then reverse to the quayside ‘stern to’ in order to tie up.   This was Lynne and Gerry’s first experience and as usual it was all a bit of a song and dance.   Neighbouring boat owners get very uptight about their lines being crossed so you usually have plenty of spectators.  

Kioni is a dramatic little harbour with lots of brightly coloured houses scattered on the surrounding hillside and enticing tavernas on the quayside.   

After our trials with the main sail and the mooring performance, Alan’s idea of a late lunch at one of the local restaurants was readily endorsed – a meze or two with a glass of wine fitted the bill perfectly.

And there was always someone to eat the leftovers........

UP THE MAST

The next day Alan was anxious to sort out the problem with the main sail.  Thankfully the morning was calm and Gerry bravely agreed to haul Alan up the 20 meter mast in the bosun’s seat (a canvas seat attached to strong rope) – Lynne and I stood by, hardly daring to look up apart from taking a photo or two……….  Alan at top of mast in right hand photo

The mission however was successful as Alan managed to manually pull out the creases which had impeded the unfurling, he looked so very small right at the top of the mast and I was glad to see him ‘on earth’ once more.  

Thanks to Gerry, the winch man......

         Farewell to KIONI

With repairs completed we departed for EUFIMIA, sailing down the east coast of Ithaca, around the south tip and then up the Ithaca Channel to the island of CEPHALLONIA, famous for the story of Captain Correlli’s Mandolin (which is based on a true story).    

We moored ‘stern to’ at the quayside with the luxuries of electricity and water connections.  Another quiet resort, we had remembered it as such a busy hub last year.   

Cephallonia itself, is the largest of the Ionian Islands with soaring rugged mountains (many of which are covered in wind generators) and lush pine forests. 

Early the next morning Bissett tours set off on another walk passing through the small village into fields of wild flowers with a backdrop of steep mountains. 

........ the beauty inspired a tango by Mr and Mrs Bissett

We farewelled the IONIAN ISLANDS as we sailed back down the Ithaca Channel on our way to Astakos on the mainland.

Another perfect day as we sailed down the Ithaca Channel with all 3 sails performing well – foresail, stay sail and the main sail.  It was a long journey so lunch was ‘on the go’, but we did have a quick look at ‘One House Bay’ on Atoko – another idyllic anchorage of clear turquoise waters.  Finally we motored into Astakos, a quaint mainland resort that we had enjoyed last year.

One of the local taverna owners recognised Alan and rushed out to give him 3 large kisses and a handshake – (Alan must have left a very large tip last year!).  Once the boat was secured we took a leisurely walk – I returned to an ironmongery to add to my goat bell collection and it became a musical event as we tried them all out for sound!   

We returned to our friendly taverna owner for supper.   The memory of the extremely large platter of seafood followed by Sea Bream and very full stomachs will remain with us for some time…..

The next morning we were woken by dozens of church bells, it was Sunday and they did sound wonderful. Taking advantage of the early wake-up call, we walked along the promenade.............

 

admiring dozens of small quirky, much loved fishing boats.   

We continued on a steep road out of the town that ended at a monastery built out on a peaceful woodland promontory; stopping at the gates we listened to the chanting of the monks and enjoyed a special moment………..

The winds looked promising so we said our goodbyes to Astakos and set sail for the next part of the adventure sailing south and then east into The Gulf of Patras.