THE HAMAN

The Haman is a traditional bathhouse which was widely used throughout Turkey before the installation of the domestic bathroom, many survive today and are recognisable by their distinctive domed roofs.

 

We tried the ‘Haman experience’ in a 16^th century bathhouse in Fethiye.  Part of me wondered if I was ‘out of my mind’ seeking more heat on what was already a very hot summer’s day, however curiosity overcame any doubts.

We were presented with clogs nalin and linen cloths pestimal, once stripped and wrapped we were led into the bathhouse -    

Gobek Tasi in foreground

The HARERET – a domed central space surrounded by smaller areas equipped with marble sinks and small basins – kurna - for sluicing.

We soon felt the heat, modesty was thrown to the wind as we stripped down to underpants and started sluicing madly.    After  20 minutes or so of ‘sweating it out’ (perspiration is too moderate a word! ) I was summoned to spread myself face down on the huge marble octagonal slab - GOBEK TASI  - in the centre of the chamber – this is the heart of the Haman and it is placed directly over the furnace so it’s very hot. 

A female masseuse rubbed and scrubbed me all over with a coarse cloth mitten kese.  After a cold rinse down it was time for the head to toe massage - wonderful.  

Finally I was shampooed with suds, an extraordinary sensation as I was lying face down and couldn’t see what was happening, I just felt totally enveloped in a gentle warmth - in reality a large cotton bag was filled with suds and air and wafted over my body.  

An extremely cold rinse down brought me out of my reverie...

Lou and Fran recovering......

We were given fresh PESTIMAL to leave the bathhouse and greeted by the manager in the reception area who wrapped us up in warm towels, he also wrapped a head towel around our dripping locks and there we sat, looking like something out of a nativity play, but oh so nicely relaxed.....

ROCK TOMBS ON THE DALYAN RIVER

DALYAN RIVER

At Ecincik we booked an early morning tour up the River Dalyan to visit the ancient settlement of Kaunos and the Kings Tombs.   

The launch left early and we were soon motoring around the coast to the river mouth. 

The rock face looked wonderful in early morning light  

we stopped to investigate a couple of caves – the literature said  ‘It’s very easy to get married with in one year for people who swim in the cave’ – none of us were game for this.

We passed deserted beaches to finally reach the Dalyan delta ..........

passing through waterways lined by bullrushes which were alive with birds, including kingfishers, egrets and herons.

KAUNOS, ANCIENT CITY

Alan takes the lead up to Kaunos

We left the launch to climb up to the ancient ruins of Kaunos, first settled by Anatolians in 9 century BC.  The whole place was thriving by 400 BC.   

Cathy and David in the amphitheatre

The theatre was in pretty good shape, despite some olive trees growing in the stalls………  

A row of spare stalls.........

There were also remains of the Agora (market place), stoa (covered walkways) a temple and Acropolis.  It was later taken over by Romans who added Roman Baths………..  However, yet again it was the location that was breathtaking – these ancients knew how to choose their sites.

THE TOMBS

After reclaiming our boat we travelled further upstream to view the famous Kings Tombs – tombs cut into the rock face with temple like facades built by the Carian people in 4^th Century BC for the Lycian King and his family.

Iztuzu Beach is a specially protected area for the Logger Head Turtle, it's a day resort with no one allowed in the area at night.  Boat skippers were trying to entice turtles with barbecued crabs – sadly the wise turtles stayed away from the hustle of the boats, but we enjoyed the crabs instead.  However I did see something rather special........

On the beach a goat had climbed into a tree.  

We left the Delta and headed back to Ecincik Bay, we were all looking forward to collapsing into the sea.........

ENTERING TURKISH WATERS

Flags flying on Moody B'Lou

As we left the Greek Island of Kos we began to follow Turkish coastline eastwards, never quite sure whether we were in Greek or Turkish waters.  The Greek flag was replaced with the Turkish Crescent and Star, we also flew a yellow pennant which demonstrated that we were in transit and yet to clear with Turkish Customs and Authorities.

DATCA

Forty nautical miles later we entered the port of Datca – a small harbour town on the Resadiye Peninsula, where the Mediterranean meets the Aegean Sea.  Datca proved to be a great entry point, a thriving small Turkish town, all formalities were sorted out promptly and we were set with our visas for a 90-day stay.

Here was our first encounter with the infamous GULETS, large wide wooden yachts built in Turkey and because of their generous deck space, they are widely in demand for short-term charter work.  The Turkish crews can be quite cavalier in their boat handling skills so we gave them a wide berth, much better viewed from a distance but they are worth viewing……..  

One final note on Datcha from the Information Centre – 'Datcha has 300 sunny days moreover plenty oxygen and sweat-free holiday are available…………. '

My rough map, red line showing our travels

We sailed eastwards from Datcha visiting towns, villages and many overnight anchorages, our final destination being Kemer which we wanted to inspect with a view to 'winterising' Moody B'Lou.

Our next stop was at Bozuk Buku.  This was a remote protected bay on a very bleak headland dotted with a few goats and scrub like trees.   We anchored in a quiet spot in company of a few gulets and other yachts, however the bay was large with plenty of space.  A small shack beckoned from the beach for a lunchtime break – 'said shack' was adorned with rugs, klims and cushions and we nestled down to a relaxed mezze with beautiful views. 

MARMARIS

The next day we headed 30 miles, NE up along the headland toward Marmaris, the barren rugged peaks became greener as pine forests covered the hillsides.  Our chosen marina was way outside Marmaris which was a good decision since Marmaris itself looked large and busy with modern concrete buildings.  

ECINCIK

The next stop of Ecincik, some 20 miles away, was quite stunning and a real delight to us all.  We opted to stay at My Marina, which consisted of a couple of pontoons in a very discrete setting, again pine covered hills and pristine waters.  

Sophisticated facilities such as showers and a restaurant were hidden away in the pines and the few buildings surrounding the marina were built of old stone or wood.  

It was all so tasteful with minimal intrusion on this magical location.   Just meters from the boat was a cordoned off area for swimming which we promptly made use of.   There are very strict rules about boat waste in Turkey, boats must use holding tanks for all sewage - so swimming areas around the boats remain clean, clear and inviting.......   


From Ecinca  we took a trip up the Dalyan River - next BLOG

TURKEY

This is my first Blog entry since we entered Turkish waters six weeks ago.  I have found it hard to formulate my impressions of this vast country bearing in mind that we have only seen such a small part of the coastline.

The ubiquitous and wonderfully vibrant Turkish flag

We arrived in mid-July to intense heat that inhibited much exploration off the boat., our most pressing need was to stay cool, which we did by frequent dips in the water or by catching sea breezes as we sailed.   Our arrival also coincided with European school holidays as coastal towns bulged with sun-hungry tourists and yacht charters.  August also brought the month of Ramadan where devout muslims fast from dawn until dark, the fast being broken by ITFAR the evening meal.

Having said all of the above, the Mediterranean coastline is majestic and hauntingly beautiful.  

The Tarsus Mountains form a backdrop with multiple layers of blue undulations which abut an ancient looking coastline; the cliff formations and abundant ancient ruins both combine to convey this impression.  I have failed dismally to get this on camera – the distant blues just fade into the sky……….

At times the coast looks soft and green with pine forests descending to the shore but a few miles further it becomes a huge rocky mass  growing out of the turquoise seas. 

Although there are lots of tourists, most tend to stay in towns that have been purpose built as holiday resorts. Fortunately we were able to find quiet spots to hide away.

Of course, we are not tourists, just two spoilt individuals wanting this beauty all to ourselves.  In the next blogs I describe some of our journey………

KOS our final Greek Destination

KOS

The following day we sailed off to Kos, our final Greek stop.  Kos is a very popular holiday destination, demonstrated by umpteen modern hotels along the town coastline.  Strips of beach were filled with sunbeds, parasols and 'pink' bodies.  The marina was on the edge of town, so thankfully it was relatively quiet.  


There were certain requirements to be met before taking the boat and ourselves out of Greek Waters.  So Alan spent the day busy with paperwork which entailed visits to Customs and Immigrations who stamped the papers so that the Port Police could give us an Exit Stamp.   We left him to it as processing paperwork can takes hours.  Kos town was a real mix of modern ‘tourist driven’ buildings and ancient Roman ruins interspersed with colourful blossoms and trees.   

mosaic in ancient Kos Agora

The ancient Agora (old market place) with its central position was fenced off – but not very well because we slipped through and inspected the large site.

Hippocrates' Plane tree with a few Roman Ruins

Nearby we found ‘Hippocrates Tree’.   Apparently ‘the father of modern medicine’ taught his students here.   Well - however old the plane tree was - I’m sure it wasn’t 2,500 years old, but I would like to think this was the spot and maybe the Plane tree a descendant of the original.  

We also spotted Minarets and a Turkish Bath house – a reminder of the proximity of Turkey and the historical fact that this island was in Ottoman hands until 1914 when the Italians took charge.  It only became part of Greece in 1948.

Later we caught a small train that climbed into the hills to reach the Kos Asklepieion – one of the three most important healing centres of Ancient Greece.  It was built after Hippocrates’ death (460-377 BC) to perpetuate his teachings.  

The placement of the sanatorium was thought to be as important as the healing methods and so we found the Asklepieion amidst cypress and olive trees on a peaceful hill with magnificent views over the Gulf of Kos.   Cleansing winds, medicinal springs and ample herbs would have been close to hand; the entire site had a calmness and serenity no doubt due in part to the beautiful situation.

After a quick lunch we resumed our exploration of Kos town and walked around the walls of the medieval Castle of the Knights that dominates the town harbour.  Entering the old town we passed through streets lined with oleander, hibiscus and bougainvillea......

Old remains were everywhere.....

We  stumbled upon Roman villas with intact mosaic floors and interior wall paintings.

Finally we returned via old Kos with its narrow streets and many squares and collapsed for refreshment before our walk back to Moody B'Lou.

We enjoyed our final Greek supper at a local restaurant on the Promenade and returned for an early morning departure to TURKEY.

Last Stages of Greek Travels & Arrival of Garcias

Tinos / Ikaria / Patmos / Leros 

The last stage of our travels in Greece took us south from Andros to Tinos and then eastwards to Ikaria in The Eastern Sporades, from there southwards through the Dodecanese Islands (which run roughly parallel with the Turkish Coastline) stopping at Patmos and Leros, with our final Greek destination being Kos.

Before leaving Andros we picked up our new crew members, Cathy and David Garcia, old neighbours from Richmond UK and also experienced fellow sailors.  Another beautiful day dawned for our sail down to Tinos, by midday we had good winds and were able to skirt the W. Coast of Tinos with 8.7 knots of speed and one reef in the foresail.


TINOS  

On our arrival at Tinos town I was a little dismayed to find we were moored up on a quay in the centre of  town – as we lowered the passerelle (our drawbridge to the outer world) cars were noisily wizzing by, however by 5.00pm all traffic magically stopped and the wide stretch of road became the area of focus for the locals’ evening walk. 

Tinos town - church centre right with main st leading up from harbour

Tinos is famous for being home to a 190 yr old Icon of The Virgin Mary which many believe has miraculous powers for curing the sick.   A wide road from the harbour front leads up to the modern Orthodox Church of Panagia Evangelistria especially built to accommodate the icon.  Inset into the road is a rubberised strip on which Pilgrims can ascend on their hands and knees!   The Venetian past of Tinos also explains a large RC presence; a strong following of both faiths is evident, judging by the 1,300 Churches with a population of just 8614.

The next day was Cathy’s birthday which we celebrated by having a few hours off the boat and touring the island.   We were soon climbing out of Tinos town and along a high road hugging the coast in our small hire car.  On the way we  saw many of the reputed 60 brilliant white villages dotted on the rugged hillsides or tucked away in small bays.  The countryside looked dry and barren with the ubiquitous stone wall terracing. 

Our lunchtime destination was Panormos Bay on the NW coast.  We descended to a pretty little harbour lined by fishing boats and a few tavernas where we enjoyed a leisurely birthday lunch.

In the afternoon we retraced our steps but stopped at the village of Pyrgos – a centre for marble and a home for many sculptors and artists.  The village was classically Cycladean – stark white houses with blue paintwork lined numerous lanes and alleyways.  

The whole island is  renowned for fan-light carvings above the many doorways.  

A fishing boat ‘motif’ carved into stone was also widely evident – probably reflecting their maritime past.  

Many of the houses had oriental patterns on the stonework.   

The whole village was a delight to wander through, our only problem being the choice of which little lane to meander along.

Ornate Dovecotes are another Venetian legacy found all over the island and we discovered a wonderful concentration of these in a small valley adjoining the village of Kambos, high above Tinos town.

In the evening we toasted Cathy's continuing health with Champagne then dined at an excellent modern Greek restaurant in a vine clad courtyard (not a Greek salad or a kebab in sight).

IKARIA

After acquiring a crusty hot loaf straight  from a baker's oven we cast off from Tinos town quay and were on way south by 7.30 am.  We had a long motor down around the South Coast of Tinos with good views of Myconos as we travelled East towards Ikaria.  Eventually the bleak hills of Ikaria appeared.

We arrived at the port of Ayios Kirikos and found everything very quiet.  Moody B'Lou appeared to be the only cruising yacht in port.  The little town was dominated by a large domed church and the quayside lined with a few sleepy tavernas.  

Later that evening as we drank the local 'red' we pondered on the story that Ikaria is the reputed 'birth place' of wine.  

I had also read that the island is famed for the longevity of it’s  citizens – is this related to the wine??

We upped and left the mooring early next morning and headed for an anchorage in the Fournoi islands where we planned a lunchtime stop for lunch.  We had a good sail south with 20 knots of wind and anchored in a quiet narrow bay at South Fournoi for a swim and picnic lunch. 

Monastery on hill in distance

PATMOS

Then we journeyed on south to Patmos and finally entered a large bay where we found a ‘stern to’ mooring, a suitable distance away from the busy ferry area.   The harbour was dominated by a huge grey fortified monastery of St John the Divine, it stood high on a hill surrounded by the typical white chora (village).  

Oriental tower in Patras town

Later in the evening we strolled along the quayside towards the busy centre.   Patmos is a spiritual centre for the Greek Orthodox faith with a large theological college, like Tinos it attracts many pilgrims who no doubt patronise the many souvenir shops in the pretty lanes. 

LEROS

A leisurely sail south with 21 knots of wind took us to Leros.  It was another brilliant day of dark blue seas and dramatic coastlines.  

Empty Italian Navy Base in Lakki Bay

Leros was occupied by Italians during WW2 and they left their imprint with large art deco buildings surrounding Lakki Bay (a former Italian navy base).  Here we moored 'stern to' at a small marina which has all the luxuries we needed – water, electricity, a shower block and laundry.....

That evening we caught a taxi up over the narrow neck of the island to visit the small capital town of Platanos from there we were able to walk down to Ayia Marina, a village with a small fishing harbour.  Again the Italian influence prevailed with many houses painted in deeper colours of Ochre and Terracotta.  We watched the setting sun over an aperitif and dined at a fish restaurant recommended by some middle aged Greek Aussies from Melbourne…….

Leros appeared softer than previous Aegean islands with lower rounded wooded hills.  Cathy, David and I enjoyed an early morning walk up into the hills passing a couple of farms and an old military museum.   

On the way we found 3 tiny kittens on the roadside – someone had left dried catfood, but they really didn’t know what to do with it.  There was consolation in that they looked well nourished and cared for, which is not the lot of most Greek cats.........  

Then onto KOS our final Greek destination.............